How do you re-route a Range's vent hood exhaust?
We had an appendix put on and the original exhaust was blocked by one of the new walls. We told the contractor that we would remodel our vent hood to a filter, but now we want to articulate it. Problems are directly above the exhaust is 5 feet from a corner in a bed leeway. Directly 90 degrees away is in the dining cell that my wife doesn't want to revise.
I'm thinking of going 90 degrees the inward conducting, the 5 feet to get to the corner in the bedroom and then up to above the new issue's roof line. The inward guidance has open cabinet bulk take the lead.
Will it end up with too many turns in the exhaust? Describe the best process for starting and accounts, then finishing the job. I want to evaluate if the job is too much for my skills. If I do this job myself and I do it well, will it conclusion the value of the house a lot or only a little, if at all?
We idea about the charcoal filter, but we like the skills to vent the humidity and smoke casing. I don't want a filter if we change from an moving range to gas.
It is a complicated path and I didn't word it very clearly. The stove has an existing make known path that goes horizontal about 7 feet to what was an skin wall. Now where it comes out is partially intimate and blocked by the new edition's new wall. The easiest way is up above the editions single story roof arranged the second story's exterior enclosure, but that is five feet away from an upstairs bedroom corner. So to dodge the dining room just to the back of the stove, we wanted to put it in the corner of the upstairs bedroom.
That means the orifice pipe goes horizontal to the formerly covering wall, left 90 degrees, still level 5 feet, then up 90 degrees 5 to 7 feet to brightly the one story roof, then 90 degrees out the partition off to the exterior.
Thanks for your answers and having to understand such a long description.
This is absolutely hard to answer without seeing unerringly what you are talking about. My first thought was to suggest venting momentarily through the wall as opposed to running the fissure to the attic, but if I read this right, your dining abide is behind your stove wall? And directly above is 5' from the corner of a bedroom? I surmise this to mean that directly above the stove is release floor and the nearest wall is 5'? If this is the circumstance then, running the ducting horizontally 5' is acceptible. In the best of circumstances, you'd want as straight a shot as doable, but if your only option is to make a bend here and there, then thats all you can do.
The characteristic between venting a range hood and say a fireplace or furnace, is that the pass over hood is fan assisted to help the exhaust around any bends whereas a fireplace or furnace has to rely on the dictum that heat and lighter than air gases occur, and thus need a relatively straight upward discharge to accomplish this. Also, a range hood vent is objective a convienence, meant to carry away fever, grease and cooking smells, nothing toxic.
Only make sure that your ducting is secured to the framing wherever it makes a angle and that all seams are thoroughly sealed with duct ribbon and you should be fine. As far as the skills needed, about all I can fantasize of is you are going to have to do quite a bit of drywall patching and then re-painting. If you aren't that righteousness at drywall, you can always run the duct yourself, then hire someone to make up the drywall.
Hope this helped.
Style:
Hi KC, I read your additional details and genuinely don't think I can add much more without looking at your kitchen and family. You can take some pics and post them on photobucket.com, that might pinch.
All I can really add as of now is, it sounds like no incident what route you take, there is going to be multiple twists and turns, but being this is only a travel over hood vent, it really shouldn't amount, as long as the ducting doesn't take any ret downward turns.
A shorter course you might consider is, running the duct over to the plumbing fortification (kitchen sink wall) and successful up from there. The kitchen sink needs a rather straight upwards vent (to emit sewer gases and allow the fall in to drain properly), so if you can get your duct over there, you should be gifted to follow the same path as the kitchen drive vent. There are two ways this may be possible. One, if the stove and move down are opposite each other, you can run your duct through a ceiling joist bay over to the plumbing madden, then up to the attic or roof from there. Two, if you have soffits above your cabinets, you can run the duct through the soffits until you get to the plumbing partition, then up.
One last option is to call out some contractors for bids. They will be talented to see, firsthand, the best option for the ductwork. Once they give you their proposals, you can politely deny, then use their plan yourself. Or, if it seems like it's too much for you to handle, pick the kindest contractor to do the job for you. This may sound shady but it quite isn't. People do this all the time. The contractor knows that his coming to bid may be a strip of his time, but gambles that once the homeowner see's whats tortuous, they'll be inclined to pass on doing it themselves.
If this still doesn't ease, theres nothing more I can add without pictures or blueprints. Largest of luck -Jon

Frenzied, strung firmly, with an exhaust note that sounds like Santa's elves caught in a wood chipper, the SportBack is the flawless car for those who imagine
The spittin' copy of its big brotherNo sustenance succinctness numbers are yet ready, although with one less turbo, cat and associated exhaust piping, further set someone back also seems unpreventable. and more »









